|
|
Post by Uncle Hawk on Jul 16, 2007 22:25:01 GMT -5
who can tell me what's involved in taking a f/w d44 down to normal track? it's got an offset pumpkin so I would only need to do one side, I'm told. I have a good lock on a waggy 44 front(with steering) and a f/w rear. I am pretty sure I want the front, if it'll bolt in more or less, but I'm not sure of the rear if it requires alot of work to bring in the track. Help out, boys  |
|
KtmRacer419
 
Unibody Connoisseur
straight outta 05
Posts: 7,424
|
Post by KtmRacer419 on Jul 16, 2007 22:34:06 GMT -5
waggy 44's arent nearly fullwidths for one.
and 2, it is far from a bolt in operation
and 3 make sure your a damn good welder if your gonna start narrowing axles
and 4 on the front axles you need to put the inner knuckles on PERFECTLY or else your jeep to pull to one side.
and 5 if you narrow axles you will need to spend money on new shafts.
waggy front axle=61.5" wms-wms
xj front axle= 59.5" or something like that?
your better off wrangling in the tires with a more backspaced wheel, than going through the effort of narrowing an axle.
|
|
|
|
Post by Uncle Hawk on Jul 16, 2007 23:00:23 GMT -5
blehhhhh i want to drag my axles like you do.. it's too good of a sound!!
|
|
|
|
Post by HeavyMetal on Jul 16, 2007 23:04:44 GMT -5
dont even bother with any 44 front cept a waggy unless youre deadset on HP front, which are all full widths. all waggy fronts are correct width, but are LP
there are no bolt in 44 fronts. unless you source one from the fabled south american XJ.
|
|
|
|
Post by Uncle Hawk on Jul 16, 2007 23:06:09 GMT -5
ive seen the write up somewhere for putting waggy 44 under. can't remember where.
|
|
KtmRacer419
Unibody Connoisseur
straight outta 05
Posts: 7,424
|
Post by KtmRacer419 on Jul 16, 2007 23:13:25 GMT -5
my axles are basically wide ass waggy axles. if you got any questions i'll answer them
|
|
|
|
Post by HeavyMetal on Jul 16, 2007 23:13:32 GMT -5
basically just perch work  |
|
|
|
Post by Uncle Hawk on Jul 16, 2007 23:19:01 GMT -5
i want a sort of cost.. and worth.. to buy as a set 44 front and "f/w" rear? $300, plus $100 gas, then what am i going to need to buyyy
|
|
|
|
Post by Uncle Hawk on Jul 16, 2007 23:23:32 GMT -5
i want to keep a 5 on 4.5 lug if possible and the disc brakes? how will this bolt to control arms? same? different(work?)? after that it become about coil buckets, and track bar mounting, yeah?
|
|
|
|
Post by HeavyMetal on Jul 16, 2007 23:30:06 GMT -5
having a 44 front and 5x4.5 isnt possible to the extent of my research, i looked into it A LOT when i was thinkin about it so i could keep the ravine wheels, but as far as i know theres simply not enough room for the hubs to fit in that small of a pattern
|
|
Mike
No, I don't tip, why?
Posts: 3,928
|
Post by Mike on Jul 16, 2007 23:40:07 GMT -5
dont even bother with any 44 front cept a waggy unless youre deadset on HP front, which are all full widths. all waggy fronts are correct width, but are LP there are no bolt in 44 fronts. unless you source one from the fabled south american XJ. or you get one from a rubicon, all though they really arent much of an upgrade. |
|
KtmRacer419
Unibody Connoisseur
straight outta 05
Posts: 7,424
|
Post by KtmRacer419 on Jul 16, 2007 23:46:38 GMT -5
first off what year are they out of?
waggy axles are 6 lug with a 5.5" bolt circle. no way to run 5 on 4.5"=wont jive with the hub.
the basic rundown of my axles:
axles:$150
detroit locker:$500
ox locker:$500
gears and install kits: $400
new locking hubs:$100
cheap ass ghetto brackets:$100
33 spline alloy shafts:400
custom length alloy front shafts:600 (ouch)
all new brake parts:$60
regearing cost:$450 (actually 700 for me because i had to get shims and shit overnighted from the left coast)
and you will need to get it regeared (unless you like running 2:89 gears)
and you will need to lock it (why go 44's if your gonna stay open)
and if they have been sitting a while its best to get new brake parts and hubs
and i reccomend getting new front shafts because you gain nothing in strength over a dana30 shaft unless you do so.
|
|
KtmRacer419
Unibody Connoisseur
straight outta 05
Posts: 7,424
|
Post by KtmRacer419 on Jul 16, 2007 23:54:58 GMT -5
 bottom is stock weenie shaft, top is alloy beef shaft note how the stock one necks down right after the splines. if you snap that there as opposed to a u-joint you will have a hell of a time getting it out. |
|
|
|
Post by HeavyMetal on Jul 16, 2007 23:57:29 GMT -5
dont even bother with any 44 front cept a waggy unless youre deadset on HP front, which are all full widths. all waggy fronts are correct width, but are LP there are no bolt in 44 fronts. unless you source one from the fabled south american XJ. or you get one from a rubicon, all though they really arent much of an upgrade. yeah half dana 30, but you are correct anyway |
|
Mike
No, I don't tip, why?
Posts: 3,928
|
Post by Mike on Jul 16, 2007 23:58:37 GMT -5
if you snap that there as opposed to a u-joint you will have a hell of a time getting it out. you aint kiddin. how would you get it out? |
|
