Speed
FAIL SPECIALIST
Snappin Shafts? Yeah Right...
Posts: 1,811
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Post by Speed on Sept 10, 2008 20:40:09 GMT -5
How do we feel about the Centerforce 1/2 and Dual Friction clutches listed in Quadratec?
Im going to need a new clutch soon, figured my next build would be the time.
I would like something slightly more suited for wheeling than stock and has a bit more holding power.
I realize that this is a mostly auto group. but if I were to post this question on Pirate, it would most likely end with me killing myself.
Any opinions would be appreciated.
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CSaddict
PayPal hater
I love Newbs.
Posts: 3,889
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Post by CSaddict on Sept 10, 2008 21:18:44 GMT -5
Centerforce dual friction suck. The weights will all end up on one side eventually. That will cause crazy vibrations and ultimately, bearing failure. We get them all the time like that in Mustangs.
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Post by Dr. Thunder on Sept 10, 2008 21:23:34 GMT -5
I have a racing style clutch made by hays in my chevelle, let me just tell you this don't bother unless you need it. You have a 4.0 which doesn't need any more "clamping" power especially while running through a low range gear. A stock clutch is by far the best bet unless you want a much stiffer clutch pedal which will become a pain in the ass or leg while going through a rock garden.
Now let me tell you the worst part, Driving with a high performance clutch also makes your clutch have less of a "ride-able" feel. In other words its either on or off, in or out. No in between. From where my clutch starts engaging and where it stops engaging is about a half inch of travel. Not bad when you're used to it but when dealing with a trick section in the rocks I can imagine it would suck balls.
On the flip side you need it when producing horsepower because the last thing you want to have when you drop the clutch behind power is a slipping clutch. So in my case it's worth it for the car.
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Speed
FAIL SPECIALIST
Snappin Shafts? Yeah Right...
Posts: 1,811
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Post by Speed on Sept 10, 2008 22:17:32 GMT -5
Ok, so no dual friction. check. And I do understand what you are saying Corey, but mine is either engaged or disengaged all the time anyway, because after a half hour of working well, it heats up and basically stops working. (wheeling) I just figured with the added weight of my rig and what the drivetrain has to turn, plus my driving habits offroad that that had something to do with it. It could, and most likely is, just the end of my current clutches life. I assume this and hence, plan on swapping it out while i have the drivetrain out anyway. I was just looking for the best option to go with so that im not kicking myself in the ass afterwards. but if you say that it would be a stock clutch, I trust you. anyone else have any other input that says otherwise?
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Post by Dr. Thunder on Sept 10, 2008 22:24:10 GMT -5
It's hard to believe that OEM will work the best with such a large world of aftermarket parts but thats the truth of it. Theres no chance you're going to get a new stock clutch to slip with the gear reduction a transfer case puts out. There are better/stronger clutches but it's not worth the payoff for a vehicle that doesn't require it. Anyone else jump in and give their 2 cents so he's not riding on just my ideas!
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Post by MARKSMAN on Sept 17, 2008 22:12:41 GMT -5
stock clutch all the way. the factory chooses the compounds in the clutch to suit the motor/vehicle. corey is right on about rideablitly of an aftermarket. the pedal will be a lot stiffer and it will be on/off. no good for rocks unless you have a 40:1 crawl ratio.
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