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Post by polarman on Aug 26, 2008 18:55:05 GMT -5
What I have is a 2000 XJ that I bought stock. I installed a 3" Rusty's suspension with the heavy front coils. I put 31" tires and a bumper and winch on it.I just put an Aussie locker up front, still open in the rear.Now, this truck is my daily driver so I don't want much more lift as I have to load my 2 young children into it on a daily basis. I DO run this truck offroad often, so I basically want to refine what I've started to make it the best offroad performer I can without adding more lift.Of course I trashed the rear swaybar and put discos up front. Here's where I could use a bit of advise from you folks.I have 2 sets of 31" tires.Super Swamper LTBs and Super Swamper TrXus MTs. They both rub the LCA when I turn to sharp.I have another set of wheels that have backspacing to bring them out to keep the tires off of the LCAs. With the wider wheels I can turn lock to lock, but I can't take it offroad and flex the suspension without bad things happening between the tires and fenders. The front is no biggie because I can trim the fenders, but the rear...I can't trim but so much without taking out the pinch welds (which will not do).I was thinking of just extending the bumpstops, but I really don't want to limit the suspension travel.I was thinkin maybe in the spring getting a SYE and shaft, and some Terraflex Revolver shackles to retain travel with droop. Then I wouldn't feel so bad about bumpstopping it to limit up travel.What would I need for shocks if I went that route? Would the 3" Rusty's shocks I'm runnung do? Now..the front.I'm still running stock CAs.Needless to say, they suck.Is there a good set of arms with heim joints or something that would make the most of of a measly 3" lift without hammering my wallet too bad? Basically, I just want to gain as much flex as possible without more lift or rubbing tires.Money will be tight this winter while the furnace is running, so I'm trying to formulate a plan for refining the suspension in the spring. Sorry about the long post.I just figured any advise I might get would be more solid with all of the facts provided.You bastards.
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Post by polarman on Aug 26, 2008 18:56:24 GMT -5
I forgot to mention, I have not upgraded the track bar yet. Suggestions on that would be helpful as well, you bastards.
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Post by CumminsJeep on Aug 26, 2008 19:21:10 GMT -5
i think this all depends on how much you want to cut up your jeep. for example, phil has a 3.5 inch rubicon express lift and 33s, but he has his fenders cut. and sam(ktmracer) had 37s on a 4 inch (i think) lift. he has 36s now with a good amount of cutting. i think if you just cut the front fenders a little, you will be fine. i think running your wider rims would be wise or get some wheel spacers. also, maybe get some lower control arms in the front. rustys adjustables are nice and i think adam has rubicon express LCAs. your def going to want to get heavy duty track bar and tie rods (try to stay away from rustys) or that will cause problems. Justin(xjeeper) runs front and rear lockers and 31 inch BFG all terrains with little to no fender cutting(i dont think) and he goes pretty much everywhere with just a 3 inch lift. he just got HD steering also. most of the rigs on here run big tires and little lift. more guys should chime in with a little more in depth analysis.
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KtmRacer419
Unibody Connoisseur
straight outta 05
Posts: 7,424
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Post by KtmRacer419 on Aug 26, 2008 19:24:29 GMT -5
you SHOULD bumpstop your rear to keep your leafsprings happy, they don't like being inverted.
and you can easily trim the rear for 31's without getting into pinch weld territory
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XJLI
The Nina, The Pinta, The Santa Maria.
Posts: 6,923
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Post by XJLI on Aug 26, 2008 19:33:35 GMT -5
The rusty's kit is OK, but once you upgrade it, its MUCH better. 1- trackbar. JKS makes a great unit, so does KOR. dont bother with the RE1600, its a POS, and the RE HD is too long for a 3" lift. 2- control arms! get some. you need LCAs at the most wheeling often. i went a while with the stockers and luckily didnt bend them, although the first trip out with my RE LCAs I put a kink in one that would have cut a stock lower in half. get a set of CAs that ARTICULATE or have a JJ in them, otherwise IMHO theyre worthless and just will rip your arm mounts off 3-trimming/bumpstopping. if you can deal with the tire rub, dont cut anything. this setup should flex well, and the stock BS rims will tuck the tire into the fender easily. ^^ thats stock arms, front sway disco'd, no rear sway, JKS trackbar. you can trim the front, and cut and fold the rear pinch seam, but IMHO the trimming isnt necessary running 31s on 3" of lift. bumpstopping front and rear should be on your list regardless. i ran 2" front, and my ext. bumps (4" upcountry) didnt even hit the rear axle fully stuffed. 4- get an SYE. on those newer XJs you really need it. PORC has a cheap SYE, then get a stock front DS and run it in back. 5- stay the hell away from revolvers 6- the rustys shocks are too short and limit flex. im still shock limited now.
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Post by CumminsJeep on Aug 26, 2008 19:38:20 GMT -5
i knew you 2 would have some good things to say
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XJLI
The Nina, The Pinta, The Santa Maria.
Posts: 6,923
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Post by XJLI on Aug 26, 2008 21:13:19 GMT -5
oh, and about the thing with rusty's shocks being too short- its a good thing on a rig at 3" w/ 31s. the tires are otherwise too small and light to be useful with anymore droop, even with the locked front axle you have. the shocks being the limiter will allow the jeep to transfer weight around so the front locker will work more effectively. btw- i gained barely an inch of downtravel with the RE SF LCAs.
i could use maybe 3-4" more droop now with the 33s, but otherwise i wouldnt get longer shocks just for the sole purpose of gaining flex. the best way to gain more from the rear is too add bumpstop so one side will push the other down.
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Post by polarman on Aug 27, 2008 15:57:32 GMT -5
Wow. You guys hooked me up with some pretty solid advise. It looks to me as though I won't be able to trim the rear more than 1/2" or so.I don't believe that will allow enough room for the wider wheels, so bumpstopping is pretty much my only option. XJLI, could you please elaborate on your suggestion to stay away from the revolver shackles? I kinda expected a bit more ball bustin out of you chuckleheads, I'm gald to see some useful input. But I still stand behind my "you bastards", you bastards.
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Post by HeavyMetal on Aug 27, 2008 16:02:00 GMT -5
plz dont forget we are bastards...thats all i ask revolver shackles are not something i would personally run on my vehicle...flex is better found out of other methods for the rear than a shackle that opens and closes.. shackle angle relocation is a much better method of getting a better ride and better results... revolvers are fail IMO...i have seen them first hand cause spring wrap under load and open and close needlessly
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Pedro
Watch out for that.... tree
Posts: 4,115
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Post by Pedro on Aug 27, 2008 17:30:20 GMT -5
im glad you started this thread, i am in the same boat as you
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XJLI
The Nina, The Pinta, The Santa Maria.
Posts: 6,923
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Post by XJLI on Aug 27, 2008 18:13:16 GMT -5
^^ what will said
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Pedro
Watch out for that.... tree
Posts: 4,115
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Post by Pedro on Aug 27, 2008 19:48:08 GMT -5
how about the PORC adjustable trac-bar? i just saw it in there when i was lookin at SYE's. its only like 140 whereas the JKS is 240. should i just spend the extra 100 for the JKS when i get one?
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Post by Buffalo Phil on Aug 27, 2008 20:17:43 GMT -5
Revolver shackles = AXLE WRAPPIN'
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Mike
No, I don't tip, why?
Posts: 3,928
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Post by Mike on Aug 29, 2008 5:49:37 GMT -5
advice*
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crosbike
Swap Shop Cop
choo choo
Posts: 6,389
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Post by crosbike on Sept 5, 2008 11:52:46 GMT -5
ewe air sew smaht RE HD track bar...oh wait u need more lift for that right? never mind. try and get a double shear track bar tho. not the light duty RE tho. that is crap
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