KtmRacer419
 
Unibody Connoisseur
straight outta 05
Posts: 7,424
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Post by KtmRacer419 on Nov 23, 2007 3:24:28 GMT -5
imo.
i run a stock front driveshafts in the front and rear. i have never broken one due to too much torque. I just spit out a cap due to spinning my yoke on rocks and damaging the yoke once, but that would happen with any shaft.
and i only have to carry one spare (as opposed to none, unless you like spending a couple hundred per shaft)
and when i need to replace that spare, all it will cost me is another $20-$30 and Im back in business.
dont get me wrong, of course 1350 u-joints are beefier and a tom woods shaft is beefier (not steves), but as far as cost effectiveness goes i would have to go through over a dozen front shafts to come to the cost of a pair of custom built shaft. at the rate im going through them it will take about 10 years to come to that.
just do your research on the 1350 yoke, im sure there is something out there that will work for an np231 sye. all it is, is a flange similar to the one on your rear axle (of course i think you will have chain skipping problems before you start breaking front driveshafts anyway)
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KtmRacer419
Unibody Connoisseur
straight outta 05
Posts: 7,424
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Post by KtmRacer419 on Nov 23, 2007 3:35:49 GMT -5
and i wouldnt even question the strength of your front shaft.
people strip dana30 ring gears before they start breaking front xj shafts or u joints.
and i liek toitles
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Post by rckrdyxj on Nov 23, 2007 11:09:08 GMT -5
Thanks, thats good info.
I may take your $$$ saving advice and run my extra front shaft in the rear instead of the TW shaft and just get a u bolt style yoke for the 1310 u joints.
My question is, if i went 1350 in the rear at the axle end and at the sye end is it really worth it? Do you think my jeep will ever actually have enough torque/balls to break a 1310 setup?
I was wondering about running a stock shaft in the rear. OBviously all teh places like DC4wd and Quadratec etc all say dont do it b/c they want the $$ but it seem slike more TW shafts have been broken then stock rear, ie steves and wills.
Right now if i can save $300 by using te 2nd shaft i have sitting in my shed, and get the $40 1310 u bolt yoke for the 44 instead of the 1350 then that will put me in business alot sooner tehn if i went all out and did a 3/4 ton rear drive shaft.
That and i have to remember that i am not mike, so i should not go through shafts like crazy.
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KtmRacer419
Unibody Connoisseur
straight outta 05
Posts: 7,424
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Post by KtmRacer419 on Nov 23, 2007 12:48:53 GMT -5
driveshafts are generally broken when your tires grab and unload on rocky hillclimbs and you get into that bouncing effect, its not exactly too much torque that will break them.
but im not saying it isnt possible to break a front driveshaft. but they have certainly surprised me.
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Post by rckrdyxj on Nov 23, 2007 16:32:44 GMT -5
Thats true. I also have to figure in that i cant/want to beat on my rig because its a dd and i jus tdont want to trash it so I hope not to get in to that situation where i will snap a shaft.
I am gonna do a front shaft in the rear since i already have one, then i am gonna take my stock rear shaft and bring it to the local drive line shop and get it modified to a slip yoke style shaft and cv setup for like $100 bucks before spring so i can put that in and use my other front shaft as a spare.
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KtmRacer419
Unibody Connoisseur
straight outta 05
Posts: 7,424
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Post by KtmRacer419 on Nov 23, 2007 21:49:46 GMT -5
I i am gonna take my stock rear shaft and bring it to the local drive line shop and get it modified to a slip yoke style shaft and cv setup for like $100 . uhhhhhh why would you want to do this? |
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Post by rckrdyxj on Nov 24, 2007 2:45:47 GMT -5
B/c they are a really reputable shop that will make me a new shaft for under $100 and will guarantee it no matter what. That and its not as much as a TW shaft. Front shafts run $75 around here so i will use te one i have for now and before spring i will ahve anew one made and keep my current spare as the new spare once thats in. Its gonna be less than $100 for the custom shaft i am just using that pric eas a worst case scenario.
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Post by thesuicidemachine on Nov 24, 2007 3:07:19 GMT -5
why would you run a front shaft in back? arent they weaker?
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Post by rckrdyxj on Nov 24, 2007 17:13:22 GMT -5
Go Away.  |
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Post by rckrdyxj on Nov 29, 2007 18:38:49 GMT -5
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Post by rckrdyxj on Dec 5, 2007 21:26:13 GMT -5
Well i will continue talking to myself on my 3 month long D44 swap.
I got new axle shaft bearing and new retainer plates and had them pressed on the shafts, the Disc brakes are mocked up and i got my d 44 riddler diff cover today.
i am basically waiting on my friend to set the gears paint the diff cover, and then i should be ready to swap it in.
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Post by rckrdyxj on Dec 8, 2007 17:26:48 GMT -5
Today i painted the calipers, rotors and the diff cover. Tomorrow when it 100% dry i will remove all masking and make sure there is not too much paint on the brake pad surface.  Primer  First coat  Diff cover  Calipers  Rotors, Painted any surface that is not touched by the pads, Including the inside. Still need to clean up the pad surfaces.  |
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XJLI
The Nina, The Pinta, The Santa Maria.
Posts: 6,923
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Post by XJLI on Dec 8, 2007 22:00:14 GMT -5
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KtmRacer419
Unibody Connoisseur
straight outta 05
Posts: 7,424
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Post by KtmRacer419 on Dec 9, 2007 0:05:34 GMT -5
reminds me of the honda kids at school who spray their rotors with clearcoat before installing them. and remind to not drive behind you, that diff cover is blinding!  |
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Post by Mr. Jeeperz on Dec 9, 2007 0:20:24 GMT -5
yea........ should have taped off where the pad and rotor meet on the rotor, before painting the rotor...!
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