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Post by arundlemcbrundle on Jan 10, 2009 2:24:24 GMT -5
summers creepin in quick. i usually just leave the top off my jeep from like march to october. its pretty easy to steal these things tho. on my old yj i had the clutch pedal disconnectable. if i was leavin it in a sketchy area i'd just pop the clutch pedal off and it wasn't goin anywhere. i dont really wanna do that again tho (one time i let a friend borrow my jeep and the pedal popped off at a stoplight on the highway and he ended up leaving it there cuz he couldn't move it :  . any other ideas? i'd like to stay away from a master power off switch because i dont wanna have to reset my radio presets everytime i start the jeep. i dont think i really wanna do a fuel cutoff. i'd rather keep it electrical. optimally i'd like to cut power to the computer by switch so that whether u hot wire, pop the clutch or whatever the thing aint gonna run. i wanna keep this easy tho and hidden. i suck at wiring |
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CSaddict
 
PayPal hater
I love Newbs.
Posts: 3,889
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Post by CSaddict on Jan 10, 2009 2:39:50 GMT -5
Depending on the year, the dark blue wire from the ECU is the main power for it. Kill that and it won't start. You can also put a switch on the coil side of the fuel pump relay or the ASD relay to do the same thing.
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Post by Dr. Thunder on Jan 10, 2009 9:09:51 GMT -5
Not that this idea is better than Dave's but I have seen the the cut off switches that are used in drag racing that goes inbetween the positive battery cable anywhere that cuts the main power but also has two leads built into the switch that maintain battery power for cd player or whatever when you turn it to the off position.
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Post by FireFighter32 on Jan 10, 2009 12:47:44 GMT -5
This doesn't help you because you have a manual transmission. But those with automatic transmissions that are interested in a kill switch, I heard that you can install i kill switch to the Neutral Safety Switch.
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Pete
Member #34
If you have five dollars and Chuck Norris has five dollars, Chuck Norris has more money than you
Posts: 961
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Post by Pete on Jan 10, 2009 20:23:55 GMT -5
my dad has a set up on his truck that you need to turn on the left turn signal to start his truck. you can hook it up to anything, turn signal, fan needs to be on high, defroster needs to be on etc its a pretty cool set up. ill get the info off of it
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XJLI
The Nina, The Pinta, The Santa Maria.
Posts: 6,923
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Post by XJLI on Jan 10, 2009 21:58:48 GMT -5
i have a cutoff on my fuel pump. quick and easy to do to make hidden
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Rico
Member #31
Posts: 3,926
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Post by Rico on Jan 12, 2009 7:34:46 GMT -5
You can def hook something like Pete said up with a relay, but I dont have the patience for that. I have an old writeup somewhere at home of how to make your own immobilizer
The World's Best DIY Immobiliser
Build your own car immobiliser that is simple, cheap and very, very effective.
By Adrian Cuesta
If wiring up a couple of relays doesn't worry you and you can handle a soldering iron and a multimeter, this immobiliser is for you.
You only need a:
12 volt heavy duty car relay;
12 volt Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) relay;
12 volt flashing LED;
reed switch that closes when a magnet is nearby;
pushbutton that opens when pushed;
broken remote from a car alarm;
and a magnet.
Most of these bits and pieces you can get from an electronics shop.
Like all immobilisers, this one shuts down the car's EFI or ignition system. But what's different about ours is that if the thief steals your keys (with the remote control attached), he still can't drive away with your car. That makes it just about unique!
So how does it work?
The guts of the remote transmitter case are removed and the magnet is placed inside. The circular magnet from a tiny speaker has been used here. When you enter the car, you casually swipe the transmitter case past a special place within the car's cabin. This place might be on the centre console, a part of the dashboard - pretty well anywhere. Hidden behind the area that you swipe is the reed switch - a switch that is sensitive to magnetic fields. The swiping triggers the reed switch that in turn switches off the immobiliser.
Because the reed switch is located behind the plastic of the dash or centre console, there's nothing to see. The swiping movement can be quite natural - part of your hand movement as you put on your seatbelt or settle yourself in the seat. That means that even if a potential thief is watching you closely, he doesn't get any clues.The remote (at right) triggers the reed switch (left) whenever it comes close. Only you know the location of the reed switch!
When you want to arm the immobiliser, you press the button. The pushbutton can be in complete view - the thief gains nothing by ripping it out and either disconnecting the wires or bridging them. When you press the button, the on-dash LED starts to flash, indicating the car is now immobilised. It also reminds you to switch off the system when you re-enter the car.
The Circuit
The diagram shows the circuit that is used.When this DPDT relay is not pulled-in (ie has no voltage applied to the coil), it connects the LED to 12 volts, causing it to flash. At the same time it also stops power flow to the heavy-duty automotive relay, in turn disabling a vital car starting circuit. The car won't start - the immobiliser is activated. Disconnecting the car battery switches off the flashing LED but makes no difference to the position of the DPDT relay. (Note that the LED is polarised and so must be connected the right way.)
You want to go somewhere, so you swipe past the open reed switch with your transmitter case. This momentarily closes the reed switch, allowing power to flow through the DPDT relay's coil. It pulls in, with the second coil power supply path through the top contact causing it to latch - that is, stay pulled in, even after the reed switch has opened. The bottom contact of the DPDT relay then feeds power to the heavy-duty relay, causing it to pull in and complete the car starting circuit.
You drive to your chosen location and want to disable the car. A single push of the normally closed pushbutton breaks the latching circuit of the DPDT relay, causing the relay to open. In turn, this stops the power feed to the automotive relay, and so it also opens, disabling the car. The LED starts to flash showing the immobiliser is set.
Installation
The system can be installed in three separate parts: the DPDT relay, the heavy duty automotive relay, and the reed and pushbutton switches. We mounted the DPDT relay in a 35mm film canister. The relay that we used fitted neatly into the canister, with the wiring passing through a hole drilled in the cap. The canister was mounted under the dash within the wiring loom.
The heavy-duty 12 volt relay should be mounted close to where you break the vital starting circuit. A number of different approaches can be used. In an older car, inserting the relay in the low tension ignition coil power feed will prevent the car starting, as will open-circuiting the ignition key starting signal to the starter motor solenoid. However, if you do the latter, the car can still be "jump started" - not what's wanted!. If there are high current fusible links used for different circuits, it's easy to keep pulling the links until the car is as dead as a doornail and then wire the relay to open this circuit.
Finally, if your car has an electric fuel pump, the immobiliser can disable this. However, note that both EFI and carby cars will still start and run for a short period even with the fuel pump stopped. This might be just enough time for the thief to drive to the middle of the nearest major road intersection before the car dies!
The 'arming' pushbutton can be mounted anywhere on the dash. Note that if this button is accidentally pressed while you are driving along, the engine will immediately stop. Thus you should mount it where accidental activation is impossible.
The location of the reed switch is very important. It should not be awkward to access when you are seated and should also not be so close to the ignition switch that the immobiliser is disabled by the thief without him realising it! Its location is best picked when you are seated in the car. Attach the reed switch to the inside of the plastic panel using a smear of Liquid Nails or similar adhesive.
The most complex part of the system is the wiring of the DPDT relay. We built the complete system on the bench so that we could easily check that everything worked. With the system mocked up, the flashing LED should work as soon as power is connected. Swiping the hand control past the reed switch should switch off the LED, causing the DPDT and heavy-duty relays to click. Pressing the button should cause the relays to again click and the LED to start flashing.
Once the system is operating on the bench, you can install it in the car
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Post by arundlemcbrundle on Jan 12, 2009 7:55:24 GMT -5
um . . ???haha. i'll probs just wire a switch for the fuel pump. thanks for the idea tho. i'm retarded when it comes to electronics so simplest is best
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Post by hippie-metal on Jan 15, 2009 2:08:19 GMT -5
i just pull that one very special plug wire out and put it in my glovebox. takes 7 secs to take on and off
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Post by Rev. AL on Jan 15, 2009 2:21:41 GMT -5
It would take an expert to steal/drive my stalling POS jeep, I am quite confident that they can't make it far with it.
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Post by snowblur17 on Jan 15, 2009 10:52:52 GMT -5
i have a cutoff on my fuel pump. quick and easy to do to make hidden it's the best way to go IMO |
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joenitro
My tires are better than yours.....
Posts: 748
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Post by joenitro on Jan 15, 2009 16:06:42 GMT -5
killing power to the fuel pump is the best way. as far as hideing the switch.... i have an xj and its got power windows and locks, i wired the fuel pump cut off to the rear window lock out switch... sneaky and ezly accesable  |
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XJLI
The Nina, The Pinta, The Santa Maria.
Posts: 6,923
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Post by XJLI on Jan 15, 2009 18:07:16 GMT -5
killing power to the fuel pump is the best way. as far as hideing the switch.... i have an xj and its got power windows and locks, i wired the fuel pump cut off to the rear window lock out switch... sneaky and ezly accesable imma steal your jeep now |
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joenitro
My tires are better than yours.....
Posts: 748
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Post by joenitro on Jan 15, 2009 19:08:57 GMT -5
killing power to the fuel pump is the best way. as far as hideing the switch.... i have an xj and its got power windows and locks, i wired the fuel pump cut off to the rear window lock out switch... sneaky and ezly accesable imma steal your jeep now go ahead now i know where to send the cops 1st when its gone  is it bad that i really only told you all where my kill switch is cuz i trust in the fact that none of you would ever steal from another fellow jeep owner/  member  given the fact that outta the what 471 some'od ppl on here i maybe personaly know 20 ppl haha |
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Post by FireFighter32 on Jan 15, 2009 20:53:14 GMT -5
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. any other ideas? i'd like to stay away from a master power off switch because i dont wanna have to reset my radio presets everytime i start the jeep. i dont think i really wanna do a fuel cutoff. i'd rather keep it electrical. optimally i'd like to cut power to the computer by switch so that whether u hot wire, pop the clutch or whatever the thing aint gonna run. i wanna keep this easy tho and hidden. i suck at wiring
